Michele’s fascination with intricate detailing and ornamental opulence takes center stage throughout the collection, echoing the timeless elegance that Valentino is known for while incorporating his own unique narrative. This collection, although ready-to-wear, speaks the language of couture, with each piece reflecting the level of craftsmanship typically reserved for haute couture ateliers. The dense handiwork and the palpable luxury of the garments are undeniable—embellishments like handcrafted embroidery, delicate lace trimmings, and opulent appliqués are visible at every turn, transforming the collection into a visual feast of textures and techniques.
The women’s collection balances between historical references and contemporary eccentricities. Daywear plays with 1960s silhouettes, a nod to the decade’s mod-inspired minimalism. The trapeze-shaped shift dresses and neat skirt suits with elongated shirt jackets, rendered in a striking black-and-white optical print, evoke the era’s graphic sensibilities. The prints themselves, dubbed “Opti-cool” (a hallucinogenic interpretation of houndstooth), offer a playful yet structured dynamism. There is also a sense of youthful primness in the silk shirtdresses, decorated with a cherry motif known as “Cherry-fic,” which combines retro charm with modern sensibility.
However, Michele’s signature quirks are never far behind. The collection includes unexpected and whimsical touches, such as a leopard-printed trench coat layered over an ensemble featuring “Petit Charles”—a print inspired by the house’s founder’s beloved pet pugs. This juxtaposition of refined elegance with playful motifs offers a distinct personality that has become synonymous with Michele’s approach to fashion.
The 1970s influence is another focal point of the collection, where boho chic is reimagined through Michele’s lens. Paisley-printed dresses bearing the “Voyage Imaginaire” motif serve as a standout, merging intricate embroidery with loose, flowing silhouettes. The interplay of short caftans with elaborate beading and mirror embellishments, paired with long, ruched skirts, exudes a sense of romantic nostalgia. Delicate chiffon wrap skirts, paired with structured matelassé jackets trimmed with ornate passamenterie, add a sense of refined bohemianism to the collection.
Eveningwear for women is ethereal and romantic. The tulle gowns, light as air, shimmer with exquisite embroidery, enhancing their ethereal quality. There is a certain dreamlike quality to these pieces, with layers of fabric gently cascading, and embroidered with crystals and glass pearls. These gowns recall the house’s legacy of glamour, offering an updated interpretation of Valentino’s signature grace and sophistication, while still retaining the wonderment that characterizes Michele’s artistic vision.
The men’s collection offers a similarly rich narrative, built upon the foundation of refined tailoring while incorporating bold, ornamental flourishes. The tailored pieces are anchored in traditional sartorialism—19th-century hussar officer jackets, adorned with finely embroidered cuffs and reminiscent of Tolstoyan-era Russia, speak to a sense of historical grandeur. These are paired with more casual, contemporary pieces, such as denim bermuda shorts and classic trousers, creating an intriguing contrast between high romance and everyday wearability.
A standout element of the men’s collection is the use of tapestry jacquard capes, trimmed with playful tassels. These garments blur the lines between historical costume and contemporary fashion, demonstrating Michele’s ability to blend eras and genres seamlessly. Red velvet jackets with ruched collars, paired with more laid-back denim or trousers, offer an elevated take on masculine tailoring, while still embracing the decorative flair that has become a hallmark of Michele’s tenure at Valentino.
One of the most compelling aspects of the collection is the sheer level of craftsmanship on display. Michele’s time at Valentino has allowed him to fully explore the depths of the house’s archival techniques and master the art of exquisite decoration. The intricate embroidery, delicate beadwork, and lavish use of luxurious fabrics are evident in every piece. Whether it’s the ethereal lightness of the tulle gowns or the weighty opulence of a velvet jacket, the attention to detail remains unparalleled.
For those who appreciate the finer points of fashion, the accessories of the collection also stand out. Close-up images reveal an extraordinary level of ornamentation—delicate beading, embroidery, and the use of precious materials that elevate even the most understated designs. These small details, often overlooked in passing, are what transform the collection from merely a display of beautiful clothes into a masterclass in craftsmanship.
