Looking for a tropical getaway in Mexico this year, but don’t really want to head to Cancun or Tulum? I’ve got another suggestion for you: Isla Holbox.
Located on the Gulf of Mexico side of the Yucatan Peninsula, Isla Holbox is a small island that packs a big punch. It’s not super convenient to get to and is mostly a protected nature reserve, but this means it’s a much more relaxed Mexican getaway than what you’ll find in some other spots in the Yucatan.
Isla Holbox is known for its shallow sandbars, kite surfing, and being in the migration path for whale sharks. And it makes for an excellent laid-back beach getaway.
Why visit Isla Holbox?
Isla Holbox is not flashy like some other nearby spots on the Yucatan Peninsula. You won’t find swanky beach clubs or high-rise all-inclusive resort hotels. Heck, you won’t even find paved roads here! And while tourism development is happening at a fast pace on Holbox, it still remains a very different kind of getaway.
Isla Holbox might be right for you if:
- You want a slightly off-the-beaten-path destination that still has an established tourism industry.
- You want a safe getaway that’s perfect for couples, backpackers, families with kids, and everyone in between.
- You don’t mind beaches that aren’t perfectly manicured, or walking through town on dusty or muddy streets.
- You can enjoy a holiday without a ton of activities (top things to do on Holbox include things like bird watching and beach lounging).
- You like good food, good drinks, and pretty sunsets.
Things to know about visiting Isla Holbox
I’m gonna be honest with you: Isla Holbox isn’t going to be the right destination for everyone – and that’s okay! It was perfect for me and a friend who was craving a slow-paced beach getaway, and we stayed for nearly a week!
If you’re considering a trip to Isla Holbox yourself, here are some things you really need to know before you go:
1. Isla Holbox takes effort to get to
Isla Holbox is by no means an “undiscovered” destination; it’s definitely been discovered, and exists today almost entirely as a tourist destination. But it’s not yet overtouristed – and the main reason why is that it takes some planning to get to.
Isla Holbox sits roughly 6 miles off the coast of the town of Chiquilá on the northern side of the Yucatan Peninsula. And Chiquilá is a roughly 2-hour drive from Cancun on local roads.
To get to Isla Holbox, you need to fly into the Cancun airport, book transport to Chiquilá, and then take a passenger ferry over to Holbox. It’s not *too* difficult, but you do want to book your Chiquilá transfer in advance to avoid being scammed on the price at the airport.
How to book this transfer?
Depending on where you stay, your hotel might offer you a competitive rate on a transfer from Cancun that will include both the ride to Chiquilá and the ferry ride. Otherwise, there are a few options:
- Book a spot in a shared shuttle (most cost effective).
- Book a private direct transfer with a company like Welcome Pickups.
- If you have the extra time, book a private transfer with Daytrip, which allows you to add on sightseeing stops along the way (I’ve used this company in Europe!).
You also need to be sure your flight and transfer will line up with the times the ferries run.
Two ferry services cross the Yalahau Lagoon separating Isla Holbox from the mainland (9 Hermanos, and Holbox Express). Tickets cost the same on both services ($300 MXN, or about $16 USD), and between the two of them ferries run every 30 minutes (each company runs a ferry once per hour) from roughly 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. – but not later than that.
So if your flight into Cancun doesn’t arrive until after 7 p.m., the chances of you making a Holbox ferry that evening are very low.
The drive from Cancun takes up to 2 hours, and the ferry ride over to Holbox usually takes about 25-30 minutes. So you basically want to allow at least 3 hours for the transfer between Cancun and Isla Holbox.
Like I said, it takes some effort and investment (in both time and money) to get to Isla Holbox!
2. Isla Holbox is a sandbar island
Isla Holbox is indeed an island, roughly 26 miles long and 1 mile wide. But it’s not an island made up of coral or regular land; it’s basically just a big sandbar that’s built up tall enough to be a permanent island.
Because Holbox is actually just a sandbar mostly covered in mangroves, the water surrounding it is quite shallow – it’s barely waist deep even if you go pretty far out. There’s also not a ton of sea life around since there’s no reef.
This means that Isla Holbox isn’t an ideal place for swimming or snorkeling – but it does mean that the beaches (such as they are) are quite kid-friendly.
3. It’s not a Caribbean island
Most people think of Mexico – and especially the Yucatan – as a tropical, Caribbean destination. And while spots like Cancun, Playa Del Carmen, and Tulum ARE indeed in the Caribbean, Isla Holbox lies on the opposite side of the peninsula, in the Gulf of Mexico.
What does this mean, exactly? It means that you’re not as likely to find Caribbean-blue waters here like you see in photos from the other side of the peninsula.
When I visited (in January), the water around Isla Holbox was very clear close to the island, but it wasn’t usually a brilliant turquoise blue. And out in the Yalahau Lagoon, it was downright dark and a little bit murky!
We met a few girls who were disappointed by this after having been in Tulum because they didn’t realize it the water would be different in the Gulf of Mexico.
4. Yes, there will be seaweed
As sea temperatures rise, so too does the prevalence of sargassum seaweed. It used to be something that only appeared every once in a while around the Yucatan Peninsula, but these days it’s almost a given that you might run into it on the beach.
Sargassum “season” is usually considered to run from March-October, however the seaweed has started encroaching on beaches as early as January in recent years, depending on weather and ocean currents. (There was plenty of sargassum on the beaches on Isla Holbox when I was there in early January!)
This isn’t to say there aren’t stretches of seaweed-free beach; there are! But you should also just expect to see (and smell) it during your visit. (And if it’s present, know that you might have to walk through it to get out to the popular sandbar people walk on towards Punta Mosquito.)
5. Holbox is not a party island
When I first heard of Isla Holbox, I heard about it in the context of it being a backpacker-friendly island in Mexico. Which, in my mind, often means a party island (I’ve backpacked through Southeast Asia, okay?).
And while Holbox is still fairly backpacker-friendly, it’s definitely NOT a party island. Yes, there are some beach bars and very informal beach clubs close to the main town that might play some music, but don’t expect to find all-night raves or hardcore partying here. It’s not that sort of place!
If you want to party in the Yucatan, Isla Holbox is not the place you want to be. I think I probably saw more families with kids on Holbox that partying backpacker types.
6. Holbox is trendy – but not too trendy
Before I started planning our trip, I was expecting to find mostly rustic guesthouses and beach bars on Isla Holbox. And those things do exist! But because Holbox is going through a period of pretty rapid tourism development right now, you can also find vibe-y boutique hotels and trendy restaurants popping up.
In fact, there are several luxurious boutique hotels and resorts to choose from now, like El Corazón Boutique Hotel, Villas Caracol, Ser Casasandra, Mystique Holbox by Royalton, and Villas Flamingos (this is where we stayed!). These hotels all have amenities like air conditioning, swimming pools, spa services, etc., but also have more rustic features like sand-floored restaurants and thatched roofs/more traditional architecture.
You can also find a wide variety of (excellent) places to eat on Holbox. You can go for something traditional like the ceviche at Las Panchas (A MUST-EAT!) or tacos at Barba Negra, or something a bit more fancy at a cool spot like Restaurante Milpa or Luuma.
You’ll also find trendy coffee shops, brunch spots, and even vegan cafes in the main town on Holbox.
7. Beachwear is acceptable everywhere
At the end of the day, Isla Holbox is an island where it’s always acceptable to wear breezy dresses, flip flops, and beachwear. When we had meals at our hotel (Villas Flamingos), we often went barefoot since the bars and restaurants there are all in the sand!
Sure, get all dressed up to go out for dinner if you want; but no one will look twice if you decide not to!
8. Holbox can be pricey
Yes, Isla Holbox is in Mexico. And yes, the island is quite basic in some ways (i.e. the roads aren’t paved and you can’t flush your toilet paper). But the island is a tourist destination – and a predominantly white, Western tourist destination that enough money has been pumped into that people can open trendy coffee shops and fancy boutique hotels.
And this means that it’s not necessarily the “budget-friendly” destination most people assume it will be. I’m guessing it’s also more expensive to visit now than it was 10 years ago.
Can you visit Isla Holbox on a budget? Sure. There are still very affordable hotel rooms and bungalows, and plenty of local cheap eats. And the beach is always free!
But if you want to stay at a nice beachfront hotel and eat at a trendy restaurant every night, you can easily spend hundreds of dollars per day. (The mid-range beachfront hotels on Holbox usually go for $100-$300 per night, but some of the most luxurious ones can easily cost $500-$600 per night during high season.)
9. This is a mostly car-free island
The thing that still feels the most authentic about Isla Holbox is the fact that it’s a mostly car-free island. Visitors are not permitted to bring vehicles over with them, and the only cars/trucks you’ll see are maintenance ones.
The main ways to get around on Holbox are on foot, by bike, and by golf cart. You’ll find golf cart taxis all over “downtown” Holbox, as well as waiting at the ferry port. And they’re the 4WD kind with big, beefy tires because the roads are not paved on Isla Holbox, and are often pitted with huge, flooded potholes.
You can expect to pay 70 pesos (less than $4 USD) to go from the ferry port to “downtown” Holbox, and perhaps 150 pesos ($8 USD) to go from town to some of the hotels further along the beach.
10. The beachfront hotels aren’t “in town”
The main town in Holbox is fairly walkable (as long as you don’t mind the dust/potential mud), but you might want to borrow a bike or utilize the golf cart taxis to get to your hotel, as a lot of the luxury beachfront hotels aren’t actually “in” town.
We stayed at Villas Flamingos, which is one of the last hotels along the beach before you hit the protected nature reserve part of the island that is not developed. We loved staying this far out since it was so quiet, but it meant that it took a good 25 minutes to walk to/from town. We did make the walk once, but opted for taxis at night and during the hottest part of the day.
11. Cash is still king in Holbox
While you can definitely pay with a credit card at your hotel, restaurants and bars around town still mostly prefer cash. There are many spots that are still cash-only, and taxis ONLY accept cash, so be sure to have some Mexican pesos with you.
NOTE: There aren’t any banks on Isla Holbox, and the ATMs on the island are notorious for not being reliable. So definitely get your cash when you arrive in Cancun!
(Having said this about cash, though, we found many more places accepting card in 2024 than we expected! I would still take cash to Isla Holbox, but you don’t need to expect to cover all your expenses with it any longer.)
12. Phone signal and wifi do exist
When I was researching Isla Holbox, a seemingly agreed upon fact was that phone signal and wifi could be very spotty or even non-existent on parts of the island, especially at hotels further away from town. I went into the trip expecting to mostly have to unplug for the week (which I didn’t mind one bit!).
But we arrived at Villas Flamingos to find surprisingly good wifi, and even good phone signal on our T-Mobile plans. So I guess your mileage may vary with this one!
13. WhatsApp is the norm
Speaking of smartphones and wifi… WhatsApp is a very popular communication app on Isla Holbox. (It’s a messaging app that can be used for texts and calls using wifi.) I thought it strange at first that I was getting personal WhatsApp messages before our visit from one the managers at Villas Flamingos, but it turns out this is pretty common.
Want to contact hotel reception with a question? WhatsApp. Book a restaurant reservation? WhatsApp. Contact a taxi driver you used yesterday? WhatsApp. Download the app (you’ll use your existing phone number for it), and don’t be surprised when everyone uses it!
14. Don’t fret about a language barrier
Yes, Isla Holbox is located in Mexico, and the main language spoken on the island is Spanish. But if you haven’t dusted off your “Hola! Cómo estás?” in a while, don’t stress too much.
Since Holbox is primarily a tourist destination (and a gringo tourist destination, at that), English is widely understood and spoken across the island. The staff at hotels and restaurants will definitely speak English, so don’t worry about your rusty (or non-existent) Spanish.
(Now, is it just polite to at least learn “hello” and “thank you” in the local language wherever you’re traveling? Yes. And I’d encourage you to brush up on some other basic phrases, too. But no one will expect you to be fluent if you’re visiting as a tourist.)
15. There’s not a ton to DO
An important thing to know about Isla Holbox is that it’s not necessarily a place that’s jam-packed with activities. Yes, there are some – you can go kayaking into the mangroves, try out kitesurfing, and book the “Three Islands Tour” to visit a bird sanctuary and a cenote.
But on Isla Holbox, the main things to do include strolling out on the sandbar, sunning yourself on the beach, and overall just soaking up the relaxed vibe.
If you’re the type of person who needs endless activities in order to enjoy a destination, this one might not actually be for you!
16. There are seasons for all the wildlife
Isla Holbox is famous for its migrating whale sharks, and the tours that take people out to swim with them. However, it’s really important to know that whale sharks are NOT in the waters around Isla Holbox year-round. This is a summertime activity, with the best months for whale shark sightings being June-August.
Similarly, if you’re hoping to see flamingos around the island, you need to visit from June-September.
17. Most of Holbox is protected
Speaking of the wildlife, the vast majority of Isla Holbox sits within a protected area known as the Yum Balam Nature Reserve. This nature reserve protects all sort of birds, as well as crocodiles, monkeys, whale sharks, and more.
It’s thanks to this nature reserve that Isla Holbox has not been more developed than it is. In order to ensure that it stays pristine, you need to practice Leave No Trace principles, which include not leaving ANY trash or waste behind, not removing any part of the environment, and respecting both wildlife and local people.
18. Beware and prepare for sandflies
One last thing I need to make sure you know about are the sandflies. Mosquitos are a concern, too, but on my visit to Isla Holbox, it was the teeny tiny sandflies that plagued us the most. They were the worst around sunset, and often sent us hurrying indoors to put long pants on. (And if you’ve never been bitten by sandflies before… well, lucky you. They produce small but incredibly itchy bites.)
No matter when you’re visiting Isla Holbox, be sure to come prepared with plenty of sunscreen AND bug spray, and some long layers to wear in the evenings.
As someone who doesn’t usually consider herself a “beach person,” I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed Isla Holbox. It’s still a little slice of laid-back paradise on the Yucatan Peninsula, and despite us not actually *doing* a ton during our stay, the week we spent there flew by!
This won’t be a destination suitable for everyone, but hopefully this post has helped you figure out whether Isla Holbox might be right for you!
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Is Isla Holbox a place you’d like to visit?
Amanda Williams is the award-winning blogger behind A Dangerous Business Travel Blog. She has traveled to more than 60 countries on 6 continents from her home base in Ohio, specializing in experiential and thoughtful travel through the US, Europe, and rest of the world. Amanda only shares tips based on her personal experiences and places she’s actually traveled!
